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Trémie
remplir un continuum
This question was closed without grading. Reason: No acceptable answer
Jun 23, 2016 00:00
7 yrs ago
2 viewers *
French term

passer le droit-fil

French to English Art/Literary Textiles / Clothing / Fashion Sewing
I am translating a biography of Yves Saint Laurent and this is from a passage that mentions a friend and co-worker of his from when he worked for Christian Dior. Before working for Dior, she was an apprentice somewhere else, "apprenant a enfiler vite les aiguilles, passer le droit-fil, detendre les tailles au fer" (please forgive the lack of accents):

"learning to thread needles quickly, ???? the straight grain, and loosen dress waists with the iron."
Proposed translations (English)
3 (go for the) straight grain
3 mark/follow a straight thread

Discussion

Anne Bohy Jun 23, 2016:
Les vêtements sont pratiquement toujours coupés avec le droit-fil vertical. Souvent, on marquait cette ligne médiane à la craie, mais ce n'était pas possible sur tous les tissus (tailleurs par ex.) auquel cas on passait un fil de bâti qu'on enlevait après l'assemblage.
Kate Deimling (asker) Jun 23, 2016:
Straight grain Thanks for these suggestions and information! I think "blocking fabric" might be right here. It's tricky, because the sewing sites I've found discuss identifying the straight grain and cutting in the direction of the straight grain, but nothing that seems to correspond to "passer" the straight grain. But a big problem with straight grain seems to be when the fabric is incorrectly folded and has to be straightened out to bring the fabric back "on-grain." L'idee d'un "fil a batir" temporaire me semble prometteuse mais je ne suis pas certaine qu'il s'agisse la d'un "droit-fil." Le droit-fil semble plutot permanent.
Sheri P Jun 23, 2016:
A guess: Truing/Squaring/Blocking Fabric Blocking and Truing Fabric
Woven fabric can be “off-grain” and cause weird wrinkles, or distorted patterns. Bring them back on grain by: Tugging, pulling,
steaming, ironing, cutting, ripping and truing.
http://ima.nyu.sh/talking-fabrics/wp-content/uploads/sites/1...
Anne Bohy Jun 23, 2016:
Explication Je crois me souvenir que passer le droit fil consiste à passer un fil (à bâtir, c'est-à-dire un fil peu solide qui sera enlevé une fois le vêtement assemblé) selon l'axe médian de la pièce. Cela permet d'ajuster correctement les différentes parties du vêtement avant de coudre (manches en particulier).

Proposed translations

49 mins

(go for the) straight grain

www.opendoor-learn.com/9175_Nichola_PrintAtCopyShop.pdf
8" AVEC VALEUR DE COUTURE. (1,5cm) ... CENTER BACK FOLD STRAIGHT GRAIN. CENTRO ... PLIURE DU TISSU MILIEU DOS DROIT FIL. 44. 4. 34. 36.
[PDF]VARCAD DIN A4
www.opendoor-learn.com/8125c_Apron_PrintatHome.pdf
PUNTO DE AJUSTE DE LA COSTURA. SEE CUTTING DIAGRAMS FOR STRAIGHT GRAIN OF FABRIC. SENS DU DROIT−FIL VOIR LES PLANS DE COUPE.

Rückwärtige Mitte Fadenlauf / Centre back straight grain/ Droit fil milieu envers/ Middenachter Draadrichting. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 10 x 10 cm.
[PDF]BurdaStyle Book Skirt Pattern - Sew It All TV

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Note added at 52 mins (2016-06-23 00:53:16 GMT)
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forum.wordreference.com/threads/droit-fil.903348/
Traducir esta página
Dans le monde du textile, on parle de droit fil et de droit dessin. droit fil = lorsque le produit est imprimé ou confectionné ... droit fil = straight of grain/straight grain
Note from asker:
Thanks for this information, David! I think "go for" is a bit vague, though...I'm trying to figure out exactly what she is supposed to do with the straight grain.
Something went wrong...
15 hrs

mark/follow a straight thread

cymru1914.org/en/view/newspaper/4121956/2Some time ago I employed a little
When I did needlework at school (in the days when girls didn't get to do woodwork), we were taught to pull a thread of the weft out to mark the straight thread to follow for pattern cutting, however, that is not the only method.

dressmaker to do some work for me, and before it .... Cut one side of each piece on a straight thread of thj [sic] muslin, and hem the ...

coutureetcie.canalblog.com/docs/conseils_pour_la_coupe.pdf
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de vos patrons se passe dans les meilleures conditions... • ... Le droit fil de chaîne (parallèle aux lisières) est plus ferme et indéformable que le droit fil de trame.

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Note added at 15 hrs (2016-06-23 15:27:59 GMT)
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www.heritageupholsterysupplies.co.uk/jute-scrim-368.html... upholstery pad and has straight thread lines to help with cutting, tacking and sewing.


Note from asker:
Thanks for your input! Bohy, in the discussion, also described a similar use of a thread. I'm having a hard time making the phrase sound idiomatic in English, however.
Something went wrong...
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