Glossary entry (derived from question below)
Jun 23, 2015 08:06
8 yrs ago
9 viewers *
French term
soie façonnée
French to English
Marketing
Textiles / Clothing / Fashion
woman\'s scarf
Hello,
I'm translating a clothes and accessories catalogue and am not sure how to translate the term 'faconnée' in the description 'foulard en soie façonnée' and 'soie crêpe de satin façonnée.' Have found it translated as figured, shaped or tailored but none of those seem to fit here. I think there must be a specific term but I can't find it anywhere. Any suggestions would be welcome.
I'm translating a clothes and accessories catalogue and am not sure how to translate the term 'faconnée' in the description 'foulard en soie façonnée' and 'soie crêpe de satin façonnée.' Have found it translated as figured, shaped or tailored but none of those seem to fit here. I think there must be a specific term but I can't find it anywhere. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Proposed translations
(English)
3 | figured silk | B D Finch |
4 | patterned silk / silk brocade (historically) | Charles Davis |
3 +1 | jacquard (wowen) sik | Rachel Fell |
References
Various related definitions | Alison MacG |
Proposed translations
2 hrs
Selected
figured silk
See the illustrations in refs below.
Note from asker:
This looks like a distinct possibility. Thanks! |
4 KudoZ points awarded for this answer.
Comment: "This fits in bestwith my translation. Thanks B D and to everyone who took the time and trouble to answer!"
1 hr
patterned silk / silk brocade (historically)
Sticking my neck out slightly, but I believe this is the sense. In other words, I believe that silk brocade (brocart de soie) is a form of soie façonnée, but not all soie façonnée is brocade (which means that the pattern is woven into the fabric as a supplementary weft, designed to look embroidered), although I think it once was. Soie façonnée can be and nowadays often is printed; the point is that it has some kind of pattern or adornment. The basic sense of "façonner" is probably adorn or beautify.
This is about the early nineteenth century, when I think soie façonnée did mean silk brocade:
"In fact, of course, the popularity of brocade had receded through no fault of the women weavers, and they were able to gain employment in their specialty of plain, undecorated fabric. These less costly fabrics continued to find mass markets, signaling a "democratization" of silk products. In 1810, of the 11,699 working looms, plain silk (étoffes unies) accounted for 9,079 while brocades (étoffe façonnée) were made by only 1,354. The same trend applied to velvet with 538 looms making plain velvet (velours unis) and only 161 making patterned velvet (velours façonné)."
https://books.google.es/books?id=JXO7yR1U1Z0C&pg=PA277&lpg=P...
The reference to velours façonné at the end here shows, I think, that although back then it did mean brocade in the case of silk, the word "façonner" essentially means imparting a pattern to the fabric, potentially by other means than brocade weaving.
Here's a Chanel "carré en soie façonnée imprimée". It's patterned, but printed, and I'm pretty sure it's not brocade.
http://catalogue.drouot.com/ref-drouot/lot-ventes-aux-encher...
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Note added at 1 hr (2015-06-23 09:38:49 GMT)
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References and pictures do suggest that "soie façonnée" is quite a broad and generic term embracing a range of different specific fabrics. In this glossary, "étoffe de soie façonnée" is given as a definition of
brocade (brocart), brocatel (brocatelle), damask (damas), figured-stitched (broché) and shot (lancé).
http://femmeetmode.fr/cvmt/vocabulaireUS.htm
So it includes, but is not confined to, each of these things. It can be, and often is, but doesn't have to be, silk with a pattern or design woven into it. It really seems to me that it can refer to almost any kind of silk fabric that is not plain single-colour silk.
This is about the early nineteenth century, when I think soie façonnée did mean silk brocade:
"In fact, of course, the popularity of brocade had receded through no fault of the women weavers, and they were able to gain employment in their specialty of plain, undecorated fabric. These less costly fabrics continued to find mass markets, signaling a "democratization" of silk products. In 1810, of the 11,699 working looms, plain silk (étoffes unies) accounted for 9,079 while brocades (étoffe façonnée) were made by only 1,354. The same trend applied to velvet with 538 looms making plain velvet (velours unis) and only 161 making patterned velvet (velours façonné)."
https://books.google.es/books?id=JXO7yR1U1Z0C&pg=PA277&lpg=P...
The reference to velours façonné at the end here shows, I think, that although back then it did mean brocade in the case of silk, the word "façonner" essentially means imparting a pattern to the fabric, potentially by other means than brocade weaving.
Here's a Chanel "carré en soie façonnée imprimée". It's patterned, but printed, and I'm pretty sure it's not brocade.
http://catalogue.drouot.com/ref-drouot/lot-ventes-aux-encher...
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Note added at 1 hr (2015-06-23 09:38:49 GMT)
--------------------------------------------------
References and pictures do suggest that "soie façonnée" is quite a broad and generic term embracing a range of different specific fabrics. In this glossary, "étoffe de soie façonnée" is given as a definition of
brocade (brocart), brocatel (brocatelle), damask (damas), figured-stitched (broché) and shot (lancé).
http://femmeetmode.fr/cvmt/vocabulaireUS.htm
So it includes, but is not confined to, each of these things. It can be, and often is, but doesn't have to be, silk with a pattern or design woven into it. It really seems to me that it can refer to almost any kind of silk fabric that is not plain single-colour silk.
Note from asker:
Thank you for your suggestions Charles :) |
+1
4 hrs
jacquard (wowen) sik
Faconne is jacquard woven satin
Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011). The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. p. 309. ISBN 9780810877856.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Satin#cite_note-lew-8
Home / Silk satin Jacquard - Ivory Floral
Silk satin Jacquard - Ivory Floral
This European silk satin has a self coloured jacquard floral pattern to it, shiny on one side and matter on the other. It would lend itself to shirts and blouses, dresses, or as a sumptuous lining, maybe in one of our lush faux furs.
John Lewis Melissa Floral Jacquard Duvet Cover and Pillowcase Set, Blue
http://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-melissa-floral-jacquard-...
http://www.topfabric.co.uk/silk-satin-jacquard-ivory-floral....
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Note added at 5 hrs (2015-06-23 13:39:43 GMT)
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/gds/Hermes-Jacquard-Silk-Scarves-/1000...
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Note added at 10 hrs (2015-06-23 18:38:46 GMT)
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Hermes scarves on jacquard silk are much valued by collectors and will always fetch a higher price than normal twill versions of the scarf. Some designs have been produced on several different jacquard designs, and all re-issues are now on normal twill silk. The jacquard is also a useful "watermark", virtually guaranteeing authenticity. It appears as a slightly raised, repeating pattern over which the scarf design is printed.
Below are some examples of the most commonly seen jacquards....
(from ebay link above)
The Art of Silk: How to Spot a Fake Hermes Scarf, and More ...
eluxemagazine.com/fashion/how-to-spot-a-fake-hermes-scarf/
9 Jul 2014 - One of the easiest way to spot authentic Hermes scarf is the incorporation of Jacquard silk (slightly 3D compared to the rest of the scarf).
Lot 399: HERMES Paris Carré en soie façonnée imprimée ...
www.invaluable.co.uk/.../hermes-paris-carre-en-soie-faconne...
Bid online, view images and see past prices for HERMES Paris Carré en soie façonnée . Invaluable is the world's largest marketplace of items at auction, live ...
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Note added at 16 hrs (2015-06-24 00:58:53 GMT)
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woven...
Note from asker:
Thank you for your help Rachel :) |
Peer comment(s):
neutral |
B D Finch
: I think that the Wikipedia entry has it the wrong way around, i.e. jacquard woven satin is façonné. It might seem hair-splitting, but had the ST meant to indicate the process rather than the effect, wouldn't it have mentioned jacquard?
3 hrs
|
I don't know - it seems to be used for silk scarves anyway; thanks BD :-)
|
|
agree |
writeaway
: at least this answer will be visible to others looking the term up in the future
20 hrs
|
Thank you writeaway :-)
|
Reference comments
3 hrs
Reference:
Various related definitions
Façonné
Un façonné est une pièce de tissu présentant un décor tissé soit par des effets de chaîne, soit par des effets de trame, soit par des armures différentes du fond.
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Façonné
Façonné
Un tissu est dit façonné lorsqu'il présente un dessin réalisé par le croisement des fils de chaîne et des fils de trame.
http://www.soierie-vivante.asso.fr/GlossaireAL.php
OED
façonné, adj.
Etymology: French, past participle of façonner to fashion.
Designating a material into which a design has been woven. Also as n., the material itself.
1957 M. B. Picken Fashion Dict. 121/1 Façonné, French word meaning figured; used of fabrics, particularly those with scattered motifs woven in.
1971 Daily Tel. 19 Apr. 12/6 Lots are really battle jackets in faconée silk, and could be happily worn over a sleeveless dress.
Faconné
French word for figured. Used in textiles to describe jacquard fabrics with a pattern of small scattered figures.
http://www.croftmill.co.uk/glossary.html
The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles By Phyllis G. Tortora, Ingrid Johnson
façonné
Figured fabrics in woven patterns, generally small and scattered; sometimes jacquard effects.
satin façonné
A fabric made with jacquard figures on a satin ground.
cravate façonnée
A jacquard woven tie fabric made wholly or partly of silk
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA533&lp...
Un façonné est une pièce de tissu présentant un décor tissé soit par des effets de chaîne, soit par des effets de trame, soit par des armures différentes du fond.
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Façonné
Façonné
Un tissu est dit façonné lorsqu'il présente un dessin réalisé par le croisement des fils de chaîne et des fils de trame.
http://www.soierie-vivante.asso.fr/GlossaireAL.php
OED
façonné, adj.
Etymology: French, past participle of façonner to fashion.
Designating a material into which a design has been woven. Also as n., the material itself.
1957 M. B. Picken Fashion Dict. 121/1 Façonné, French word meaning figured; used of fabrics, particularly those with scattered motifs woven in.
1971 Daily Tel. 19 Apr. 12/6 Lots are really battle jackets in faconée silk, and could be happily worn over a sleeveless dress.
Faconné
French word for figured. Used in textiles to describe jacquard fabrics with a pattern of small scattered figures.
http://www.croftmill.co.uk/glossary.html
The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles By Phyllis G. Tortora, Ingrid Johnson
façonné
Figured fabrics in woven patterns, generally small and scattered; sometimes jacquard effects.
satin façonné
A fabric made with jacquard figures on a satin ground.
cravate façonnée
A jacquard woven tie fabric made wholly or partly of silk
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=LTYfAQAAQBAJ&pg=PA533&lp...
Note from asker:
Thank you for these useful references Alison :) |
Peer comments on this reference comment:
agree |
Rachel Fell
: glimpsed this as I was entering my answer refs.
2 hrs
|
No problem, Rachel
|
|
agree |
writeaway
: also useful for future 'visitors'.
2 days 43 mins
|
Discussion
"embossed silk" might be another candidate.
http://www.planetetissus.fr/soie-faconnee-bepe-2-c2x16644337
That seems to be exactly what it is that makes these ones special, i.e. worth mentioning...
It is, of course, also one of the common meanings of 'façonné'.
I once watched a fascinating documentary about the French technique of 'shaping' or 'forming' silk items by pressing them between two 'cardboard' forms and then applying steam and pressure to leave the silk scarf etc. with a permament — and sometimes amazingly intricate! — shape. They were using 100-year-old forms, it was quite beautiful! But I don't know if there isn't a proper technical term for this?